Getting a mechanic's opinion & inspection for a used is important, even if it's a Toyota/Honda

@kelvinkann What’s your opinion on aiming for last years of a generation as opposed to the first few? Is it a myth that those versions have less reliability issues because most glaring ones were ironed out by the manufacturer during evolution?
 
@knothat It’s absolutely not a myth! If we look at:

7G Civic: the later models stopped having transmission issues, air conditioning issues, etc cuz they had fixed it by then

8G Civic: porous block castings in early 07-09?10? cars continue to fail

3G TL: the 07-08 didn’t suffer from widespread transmission issues due to a revised design

Lexus LS460: later model years didn’t suffer from control arm/brake actuator failure

That said, some models sucked throughout their model run, but if you must, a later model year is definitely better
 
@kelvinkann Further Civic question, would you agree that choosing a bigger NA engine over a smaller turbo one (2L vs. 1.5T) is a good reliability choice, even thought MPG might be lower?
 
@knothat I don’t like driving the K20 civic - it has a much dumber CVT that makes the whole car way noisier. It is a good reliability choice though.

In the case of the Lexus IS, the 300/350 is wayyyy better than the 2.0T.

In the Mustang, the 5.0 gets equivalent fuel economy to the 2.0T.
 
@knothat Doesn’t matter at this point. My 2016 Touring is now 7-8 years old. Still perfectly fine. There’s nothing ‘unreliable’ about it. My LS460 has radar cruise and automatic parking, soft close doors. 16 years old and all the electronics work. If there was a pattern failure with the 1.5L or any other aspect of the car it would’ve been known by now
 
@coreyd Hey! As I mentioned in the post:

> Statistically, there will be some cars of a bad model that haven't been troublesome.

RE: Honda L15 We're starting to see early L15 equipped CR-Vs start to require turbo replacements and/or fuel injectors ($1500 or so) and CELs reappear in ways that we just didn't see with K24 equipped CR-Vs.

They’re defs not dropping like flies but I think it would be problematic to say they’re super solid. As you mentioned, we'll understand this better with some age.... N55 BMW engines also looked solid until they started blowing rod bearings at the 7-8 year mark.

RE: LS460, that's a cool spec - rare to find one with radar cruise/auto parking. The soft close doors go bad on the 430 a lot and together with the common door lock actuator failure, they're a $1500 part with soft close or $600 without.
 
@coreyd I actually had a chance to catch up with my Honda dealer tech friends - they’re starting to see head gaskets on in warranty 1.5T accords (they’ve done 20 of them in the last year).

Less common on the CRV/Civic with lower boost pressure, but afaik the consensus is that it’s due to stretching head bolts.

12 hour book time for this job right now. 2.0T is fine.
 
@kelvinkann Nice list. I look after a lot of our fleet, and definitely feel the same way about a lot of these.

Curious what turns you away from the Tacoma though? We've probably had a dozen or so, since the first model in the 90s, and have taken some up over 400k. And I can't think of ever having one major issue with any of them. We've never "killed" one. And always end up selling them just due to age. In contrast to Fords/Gm's (sport trac, f150, explorer) where almost every one eventually died with something significant like trans failure. They die before we're done with them lol.

I'd be the first to say that toyota doesn't seem to prioritize "modern" in their trucks (no power seats, just got heated mirrors in the last decade, fuel economy isn't great, etc.), but the vehicles have always treated us well as far as maintenance.
 
@ttcg52 Up until 2017/18, the Tacomas have massive issues with frame rot - major recalls but eligibility for new frame replacement has just ended for most.

The 3.5 in the 2017+ is also very weak and dumps oil into the intake if you do any sort of driving on steep inclines at all - the PCV system wasn’t designed for a truck.

I really struggle with a full sized truck recommendation at the moment.

Ford’s 10 speed seems to be suffering early failure, GM’s V8s have valvetrain issues at the moment and their 8 speed keeps blowing up, RAM 5.7/ZF8 is reliable but the rest of the truck is not.
 
@kelvinkann Right, the frame rot. I'm on the west coast, so that didn't really seem affect us. But I had forgotten that.

Yes, we have some full sized cummins rams, and everything is great except for the Chrysler part lol. We've actually been fairly fortunate with every full sized truck, except for crappy 6.0l fords, and older gms with the 6.5l (which are ancient now). It seems just generally they're built with better quality, from alternators to shocks. I think diesel emissions have been the worst part for us in the past 15 years with full-sized trucks. It's awesome when they work, but they very often don't work, and are so costly to fix. And then you're looking over at your older trucks with just a muffler thinking, "that was sure a simple system" lol.

Thanks again for the list. I'm saving it for future reference.
 
@kelvinkann Assuming you do you your own oil change, tire swaps + rotations, and fluid top-ups. But for anything outside that wheel house you’d typically bring it in, would you consider the warranties to be worth it? (I know they don’t cover typical maintenance like brakes etc.)

For instance I have 2020 Honda Pilot, it had a failed PCM module that they replaced and technically not under standard warranty but the car was a few days old so they fixed it. I’ve had no problems since, but I’m approaching the deadline to add the extended warranty
 
@perryplaya I remember thinking Honda Care to be fairly worth it, especially with the new sensors and cameras for driving assistance that can affect drive ability.

I’ve seen failed adaptive cruise keep a 9.5G accord from starting.
 
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